Today: a brief shout to Milliput.
What: It was (I think?) the only greenstuff available in the 1980s. It is still sold today and remains my greenstuff of choice.
Why: Long shelf life (I've still got a tube bought in 1991 that is going well!), several different "grades" of milliput available, and being an old-timer I'm used to using it (more than Games Workshop's greenstuff).
Uses: Anything greenstuff can do. And then there's the home DIY aspect: this stuff can be used for small leaks on water pipes, can set underwater, and works wonderfully well in conjunction with superglue on fiddly little arms.
Vendors: Most hobby places that sell model railways (etc.).
Online, there's plenty of places that sell this stuff, e.g.: terrascenic in the UK; and hobby tools Down Under.
What: It was (I think?) the only greenstuff available in the 1980s. It is still sold today and remains my greenstuff of choice.
Why: Long shelf life (I've still got a tube bought in 1991 that is going well!), several different "grades" of milliput available, and being an old-timer I'm used to using it (more than Games Workshop's greenstuff).
Uses: Anything greenstuff can do. And then there's the home DIY aspect: this stuff can be used for small leaks on water pipes, can set underwater, and works wonderfully well in conjunction with superglue on fiddly little arms.
Vendors: Most hobby places that sell model railways (etc.).
Online, there's plenty of places that sell this stuff, e.g.: terrascenic in the UK; and hobby tools Down Under.
I use Milliput a lot. It sets rock hard, I am told, because it is a mixture of epoxy resin and modelling clay.
ReplyDeleteThe only thing about green stuff is that it seems to be better for fine detail sculpting.
John
I only really use miliput for "bulk" work, so for example if I was doing a torso of something I'd use a miliput core and then skin it over with green stuff. I find miliput too difficult to sculpt detail with, so I prefer GS for that part.
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